ACADEMY OF ART ss17 NYFW

Young designers: Academy of Art | AAU ss17 collection marked the 20th graduate fashion show held during New York Fashion Week. The ten collections were split into 7 womenswear and 3 menswear collections, with 1 acrylic eyewear collection. These emerging designers filled the runway with not only trendy threads but also unique concepts.

Academy of Art graduating designers include: Nina Nguyen, Melissa Kheng, Natalya Sheveleva Robinson, Yi Ru Chen, Lindsey Trueman, Anita Szu-Yi Chen, Dora Li, Brandon Kee, GeuMi Lee, and Yolanda Chiu for accessories. Here’s a glimpse of the new talent this season

Nina Nguyen is a Vietnamese designer who based this collection off of the temperament of sea coral. The designs lay on top of a sheer base and displayed pastel colors placed delicately across the garments. They exhibited a vigorous femininity shown throughout the tedious beadwork and frayed edges.

Singapore native, Melissa Kheng, stemmed the masculinity of her menswear line from the Japanese culture. The combination of a biker’s edge from the Japanese street life and the practicality of a fishermen’s garb provided the inspiration for this line.

The knitwear designs by Natalya Sheveleva Robinson required every stitch to tell it’s own story with the use of color and direction. The geometric designs of her sweater dresses, transitioned effortlessly in collaboration with her color scheme. Deep blues faded into icy greys expressing the polar opposites of the spectrum.

The textile designs of Taiwanese student, Yi Ru Chen, express the delicacy of a calm sea. The soft palettes and fluid motion of all the garments brought tranquility to the runway. Asymmetrical cuts and cinched waists enhanced the silhouettes on all the garments as well. Chinese born Jing Qian collaborated with Yi Ru for this collection and contributed the artistic prints to these organic threads. Soft brush strokes and abstract designs were hand painted onto these eco-friendly fabrics.

The aesthetic of the Lindsey Trueman collection worked in subtle pales nudes with a rugged message. The tailored garments presented the long history of her family’s Native American background onto its grain sack fabric. Longline pieces worked in unison with the flesh tone color scheme.

Ben Ellis menswear brought the noise. Patchwork denim and heavy jersey material was the base of majority of the line. He further used bleach and the depictions of strong predators of the animal world in a roaring homage to his Alaskan homeland. These rough around the edge design surely had a deeper story to tell.

Placement was the focal point of the Anita Szu-Yi Chen knitwear collection. Her ability to construct clothing that had organized folds, angular shapes and movement is impressive. Her oversized designs featured reversible patterns to provide a versatile experience.

Dora Li’s inspiration came from the attire of child workers in the 30’s. The oversized silhouettes and tarnished fabrics, represent her muse well. The fabric selection were made by Carly Dean who collaborated with Dora on this collection. She was able to create layered fabrics with a gritty texture to further play out Dora’s vision.

South Korean GeuMi Lee, displayed futurism and sporty style with this season’s collection. Lace up bottoms and padding fused with customary martial arts garb to create both a functioning aspect to the line.

Innovative techniques in Brandon Kee’s work, incorporating rust on his garments gave off a worn in vibe to his baggy pieces. Aviation style jumpsuits were also featured with heavy distressing. He was able to flip a uniform into an urban flare ensemble.

Yolanda Chiu was the designer of the acrylic eyewear featured in collections on the runway like Nina Nyguyen Hui’s collection. It added a spubky flare to the other designs and were showstoppers with their laser cut patterns and decorative style.

ACADEMY OF ART ss17 NYFW commentary + fave selects by Brigitte Segura, written by Nyaa Ferary.

photo credit: Randy brooke.

backstage photos: Yvonne Tnt for FashionDailyMag.

#brigitteseguracurator.

Tre Samuels

Geron Mckinley

photo credit: FashionWirePress.

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