NYFWM menswear ss16 at NYMD

Born of the marriage between military-inspired utilitarian details with the athleticism of urban wear, PLAC’s collection combines familiar materials in unfamiliar ways against clean and fresh construction. The collection speaks to the angst rooted in the simultaneous experience of individual privilege and social awareness. Black leather, high-density cotton, camouflage, textured jersey and knit infused rayon mix seamlessly in a distinctive almost preppy ragamuffin- chic silhouette conjured to assuage an inner conflict with a positive synergy.

Carlos Campos evoked the atmosphere of a sultry film noir with a collection that could be worn by characters from a Graham Greene novel. The sleek, yet relaxed presentation is defined by classically constructed suits that recall the lines of a uniform through drop rises and wide cut longer leg pants. With a blue from the deepest depths of the Caribbean and contrasted in a green culled in the remotest reaches of the rainforest, the use of vivid color is punctuated by looks in mysterious camel, sexy red, exquisite camouflage and tropical prints.

Aptly named Lucent Stasis, the collection from Garcia Velez flirts with the ephemeral nature of light and color through methods of reflection, concealment, diffusion and capture. Looks crafted with bonded neoprene and nylon are punctuated with subtly fluorescent gradients and unapologetically juxtaposed accents. Influenced by hypnotic light installations at the Chinati Foundation from artists Dan Flavin and Donald Judd, the collection is at once animated and pragmatic, youthful and grownup, thereby extending the journey of a “cultural nomad”.

Ruminating on the duality of ‘textured modernism’, Matiere’s presentation dresses a streetwise soul in premium and unexpected fabrics. Realized with dense cotton slub, technical nylon, brushed cashmere, chambray and 3-D striped terry, key looks included modal jersey tees, baseball shirts, gusseted pants, and recast silhouettes for bombers and anoraks. The fashion forward collection strikes an enchanting balance that is hopelessly sleek while asking to be touched.

Inspired by the long shadows, barren salt basins and rare wildflower blooms of Death Valley— “one of the earth’s most extreme environments”—the presentation from CWST (pronounced “quest”) is infused with a sense of shamanic magical realism to show that things are not always what they seem. Through masterfully individualistic silhouettes and a smart mix of lightweight fabrics, including suits whimsically constructed to feature a distinctive crumpled texture, this is the collection everyone wants to be wearing during dog days summer.

Strongly influenced by the work of the Bauhaus women’s weaving workshops, the custom fabrics for the David Hart presentation were produced by mills in Italy and England. The spirit of the collection undulates with silk printed with colorful geometric shapes, softly tailored tuxedos in iridescent mohair or boldly tinted merino wool as well as suits and pleated shorts in linens dyed in skillfully chosen pastels. It all come together to form an incredibly coherent whole that is daring, but never loud and elegant without ever being stuffy. NYFWM menswear ss16 at NYMD written by Charles Desselle.

credits:
NYFWM menswear ss16 at NYMD feat.David Hart, Carlos Campos, Plac, Garcia Velez,  Matiere, and CWST.

story:  Charles Desselle x FashionDailyMag,

selects: Brigitte Segura x Charles Desselle

photo credit: Audrey Froggatt x FashionDailyMag

+ courtesy of designers

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