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JEAN PAUL GAULTIER: Sidewalk to the Catwalk at the FUNDACIÓN MAPFRE in Madrid

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER: Sidewalk to the Catwalk at the FUNDACIÓN MAPFRE in Madrid

Gaultier has done it again! more to enjoy from the mastermind’s designs: film to fashion to music videos in the new exhibit The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk at the FUNDACIÓN MAPFRE in Madrid. All you jet-setters will definitely want to stop by the lively city to check it out, starting October 6, 2012 through January 6, 2013.  The museum will showcase the avant-garde designer’s take on Spanish culture (think flamenco dancers and toreros) with 120+ haute couture and RTW looks alongside images from top photographers and modern artists.

 Gaultier’s love for Spain began in his childhood during family trips across the country, (and also in a secret wish to become a Spanish teacher) and blossomed onto his designs with his daring bolero jackets, Sevilian shawls, and drama fans. Celebrating the designer’s 35 years at the helm of fashion, the museum will have 50 sketches+ audiovisuals, along with legendary (and jaw-dropping) looks such as Madonna’s corsets from the 1990 Blond Ambition World Tour. For you film buffs, spanish director Pedro Almodóvar features costumes and original sketches JPG designed from his films such as, “Bad Education,” “Kika,”and “The Skin I Live In.”Spanish screen sirens have also been decked out in JPG such as Elena Anaya, Victoria Abril, Rossy de Palma and also Joaquín Cortes, the famed flamenco performer. This show won’t be your regular museum field trip- as JPG’s creations are shown on 30+ mannequins with interactive faces, and also have headdresses and wigs designed by Atelier 68 founder Odile Gilbert-making your  experience even more breathtaking! 


Sketch of Madonna’s stage costume, Confessions Tour, 2006
© Jean Paul Gaultier on FashionDailyMag

You’ll journey further into Gaultier’s past through the show’s 6 sectionsOdyssey, Boudoir, Skin Deep, Punk Cancan, Urban Jungle, and Metropolis. The Odyssey features his ever-present subjects such as mermaids, religious references, and sailors, and also a never-before featured design from 1971 that debuts at the show. At The Boudoir, you’ll see how corsets, and most importantly underwear as outerwear, strongly influenced him thanks to the film Falbalac and also how his grandmother shaped his design aesthetic and taste. Next in Skin Deep, JPG uses skin as what he says is “the first garment” to create looks that resemble tattoos from Régine Chopinot, a flayed human body from Mylène Farmer, and lots from Almodóvar’s films. If that isn’t striking enough for you, this area also provides iconic looks such as men in skirts.

Punk Cancan shows what Gaultier does best-uniting cultures and opposites such as the London Punk movement’s  street looks of lace, fishnet, latex, leather, with the chicness of Paris, thanks to legends such as Catherine Deneuve and Kiki de Montparnasse donning trench coats and berets. Continuing Gaultier’s street-chic theme, visitors will also get to see the work of urban Spanish graffiti artist, SUS033. Urban Jungle displays the morphing of cultures, from flamenco-dressed Chinese women, to the Bedouinc in New York’s Barbèc district , to the maharajahs from Bollywood to finally landing at the Spanish influences, which are all summed up in the high quality of French haute couture. Throughout each culture, Gaultiers approach still stands-as pieces having crocodile hide, exotic feathers, leather, and also python skin are shown. You’ll go back to the future in Metropolis, by experiencing the beginning of 1970’s house music and sci-fi influences on the designer. This section features some of his iconic collabs such as a Gael García Bernal’s dress from Bad Education and the sketch+nude bodysuit from the Vicente/Vera character played by Elena Anaya in Almodóvar’s “The Skin I live In.”

If you want to have a piece of the show,  the catalogue’s Spanish edition that has 40+ interviews from his noteworthy collabs and interactions with Helen Mirren, Martin Margiela, Madonna, Catherine Deneuve, Dita Von Teese, and Pedro Almodóvar. Also included are interviews directed by Theirry Maxime Loriot with the designer, a Suzy Menkes essay, a transcript from Gaultier and Florence Mûller, the fashion historian, on their talk about his beginning years, and Valerie Steele’s response on Gaultier’s impact on fashion. You’ll definitely want to get the book before its gone, as it has newly featured works and images from Warhol, Mert & Marcus, and  Erwin Wurm. 

The upcoming exhibit in Madrid is in line with a slew of other cities to showcase his groundbreaking designs. This concept began at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts in June 2011 in junction with Maison Jean Paul Gaultier, then followed to the Dallas Museum of Art, next the de Young Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco, then Madrid’s FUNDACIÓN MAPFRE. For those museum mavens, you can follow the exhibit next to the Netherlands Kuncthal Rotterdam February-May 2013, then to Stockholm’s Arkitekturmuseet June 2013-September 2013.  

Overseers of the Gaultier show include: Chairman of FUNDACIÓN MAPFRE Alberto Manzano Martos, Director of the Instituto de Cultura Pablo Jiménez Burillo, the show’s curator and Project Manager Fashion and Design at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts Theirry-Maxime Loriot, Director and Chief Curator of the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts Nathalie Bondil. The AV aspects of the show were staged, produced, and designed by Montreal’s UBU/ Compagnie de création, Denis Marleau and Stéphanie Jasmin. After seeing The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk, you’ll definitely learn how to be a Gaultier girl or guy-and stomp to your own beat ! Written by Mary Anderson. 

credits:

featured image [left]: GAULTIER  immaculate no. 3 | numéro, may 2007 VirGins (or maDonnas) collection, haute couture ss 2007 alexander daniels collection, amsterDam © miles aldridge/trunkarchive.com

Sketch of Madonna’s stage costume, Confessions Tour, 2006 © Jean Paul Gaultier

JPG Ze Parisienne French Cancan gown haute couture spring/summer 2002 Credits:

SKIN DEEP
Ze Parisienne collection, “French Cancan” gown
Haute couture spring/summer 2002
Bodysuit and long tutu of flesh-colored pleated tulle
Model: Carla Bruni-Sarkozy
Copyright Patrice Stable/ Jean Paul Gaultier

JPG Apparitions Gown Haute Couture spring/summer 2007 Credits:

ODYSSEY
Virgins (or Madonnas) collection,
“Apparitions” gown
Haute couture spring/summer 2007
“Celestial” print satin strapless sheath; bustier-style top with “hologram” embroidery and bows, ivory silk tulle overskirt; “hologram” and ivory lace veil
Copyright Patrice Stable/ Jean Paul Gaultier

JPG Costume Sketch for Kika Directed by Pedro Almodovar Credits:

METROPOLIS
Jean Paul Gaultier
Costume Sketch for Victoria Abril’s character in Kika, directed by Pedro Almodóvar, 1993
Copyright Jean Paul Gaultier

JPG Movie Stars (or Cinema) Collection Étoiles et toiles gown haute couture fall/winter 2009-2010 Credits:

METROPOLIS
Movie Stars (or Cinema) collection,
“Étoiles et toiles” gown
Haute couture fall/winter 2009-2010
Acetate-film-covered corset edged with black satin, articulated shoulders and hips, georgette film-stock-print sheath skirt
Copyright Patrice Stable/ Jean Paul Gaultier

JPG Sketch of Madonna’s stage costume Blond Ambition World Tour, 1989-1990 Credits:

THE BOUDOIR
Sketch of Madonna’s stage costume, Blond Ambition World Tour, 1989-1990
Copyright Jean Paul Gaultier

GAULTIER divine jacqueline Credits:

PUNK CANCAN Divine Jacqueline collection, L’ecume des jours dress Haute couture spring/summer 1999 Patrice Stable | Jean Paul Gaultier

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