fdmLOVES: HIGHLIGHTS spring 2013 menswear
Fdm LOVES highlights from MENS fashion week spring 2012 at LFW, MFW and PFW. introducing two types of men: the chill introvert donning deep color schemes, and the extrovert sporting loud, look-at-me shades. Solid suiting and darker- hued looks with a peek of print underneath would appeal to the quitter type at Alexander McQueen, Comme Des Garçons, Maison Martin Margiela, Etro and Junya Watanabe, Hardy Amies and Prada, suggesting a gradual transition into the season.
The BOLD boys dived right in: giving us pattern drama and head-to-toe color for a striking presence and entrance: at Burberry Prorsum, John Galliano, Roberto Cavalli, Gucci, Carven, Yohji Yamamoto, Trussardi, Kenzo, Paul Smith, and Jean Paul Gautier.
Blue stole the stage this season-from textured jackets at Roberto Cavalli to cobalt paisley prints at Etro-demonstrating the great lengths this color can take. Mustard and green on suits and carryalls from Trussardi and Gucci were a relaxed, yet luxe approach for revamping lighter tones of the season. The namesakes return at Jil Sander brought carefree color-blocking, from tan suits to electrifying navy shirts, while Prada gave a severe, unisex approach with white bands across the board: from shirt collars to pants to jackets, showing how boldness can become the great equalizer.
Patterns took shape on everything: cheetah at Kenzo, constellations at John Galliano, screen-printed faces on jackets and shirts at Givenchy-all creating eye-catching optical illusions. Bid adieu to cigarette pants and make way for a broader, boxier silhouette. The horizontal stripes at Dior Homme and Jean Paul Gaultier and the loose-fitting shorts at Acne debuted a stronger, yet structured look this season. Uniformity with a twist was adopted by many this season, from gray suits at Giorgio Armani to camouflage under ankle-grazing terrycloth biker jackets at Comme Des Garçons-but do not be fooled, the similarities of the season does not serve to undermine, but unite. Written by Mary Anderson.