ERDEM spring 2014 LFW
A graduation day soiree at the prestigious British private school Eton best describes the feel of Erdem’s spring 2014 collection, which featured a range of sweet, romantic gowns in a black and white palette. Straying from the label’s signature polychromatic, floral printed numbers, Erdem’s latest offering took inspiration from the English public school institution, with models as pupils marching down the catwalk in front of a cellist and pianist sitting center stage.
Ethereal gym kits, sweatshirts and rugby shirts were key in no nonsense black and white, in addition to organza shell tops peppered with the text of poems penned by Emily Dickinson and Walk Whitman contributing to the offering’s schoolyard vibe. Crisp cotton shirtdresses layered with bands of tulle complemented the monotone mood and upped the ladylike factor, with the occasional biker jacket and sport sweater adding a preppy edge to the mix.
Reminding the front row of the label’s knack for nailing the sweet and romantic trend were a spate of a sheer, floor length gowns, adorned with lace appliques and feathers, and a black-and-white duchesse satin cocktail dress with a sheer organza overlay. Mannish elements were transformed through intricate embroidery, such as a jock-inspired biker jacket with spidery black lace or a schoolboy blazer made from organza and net. A standout was a strapless black cocktail gown which gathered at the side with voluminous layers, perfect for the black tie event following a weekend rowing regatta.
Expanding on last season’s edgier collection, Erdem added a distinctive sense of downtown cool to the latest offering through eclectic, tempered looks such as a preppy sweater vest teamed with edgy, platform sandals and an evening-ready ostrich feather skirt. Moto jackets, exposed zippers and leather gave the mix a rebellious feel, which was softened by swaths of lace and tulle.
NARS’ James Kaliardos crafted an icy, androgynous look which kept in check with the boy-meets-girl theme through the use of gray matte shadow and accentuated liner. Fiercely low side partings with whispy, fly-away strands complemented the feathered looks in the collection. fdmLOVES ERDEM spring 2014 selects by Brigitte Segura, written by Khia Mercer.