A new kind of Couture
When you think of Haute Couture, what springs to mind are the days where Galliano and Lacroix reigned, ruling with outrageous designs – a spectacle of divine extremes. But what happens when you take that away? Paris down on two of its once finest couturiers, it’s time for something new. Here we discuss Raf Simons for Dior, Iris Van Herpen, and the minimalism that is captivating couture.
Simple is in, and minimal CHIC is now a variety pack. People often like referring to deconstruction in minimalistic collections like Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal. We’re taking it to Christian Dior by Raf Simons, and Iris Van Herpen – houses that are at the opposite end of the spectrum but remain in the same category nonetheless.
After the “Galliano leaving Dior” drama, and when Raf Simons took over the house of Christian Dior presenting his first Haute Couture collection, people were irritated. The miles of tulle, over-the-top makeup and extravagant theatrics were gone from the Dior they once knew, to be replaced with simple clean tailoring and intricate embroidery which made for a more modern, elegant woman… that people didn’t seem ready for. As Raf’s Couture collections went on a common theme became clear, often repeating the same fresh cuts and styles with a delicate edge which in turn has now made the new Dior woman instantly recognisable, revealing just the true magic of minimalism.
We then go on to Iris Van Herpen, who is currently a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Her interning at Alexander McQueen very apparent, as her designs are of the utmost craftsmanship and expertise. Often shying away from using soft fabrics as she feels limited by them, instead Van Herpen uses more natural solid materials such as wood, metal, and in her latest Couture show aptly named ‘’Wilderness Embodied’’ went so far as to producing 3D printed shoes. As much as a designer as an artist, the work of IVH is often seen as sculptures or ‘wearable art’ than clothes. Despite the complexity and sheer amount of workmanship involved it is not excessive, but sheer genius as it still fits a minimalistic approach.
This is truly a new kind of Couture. It seems we now have a refined approach in which we clearly see: not all Couture must be outrageous and flamboyant. It focuses more on the craftsmanship involved and eye for detail, with that special personalized flair. What’s your idea of HC, and does it changed as time moves on? fdmLOVES x dePrincessed vol 001: a New Kind of Couture by guest writer Charlotte Rose.
check out more of our favorites:fdmLOVES couture and dePrincessed couture.
photos: courtesy of Iris Van Herpen